The City of Bristol's Garden Vineyards: Foot-Stomping Grapes in City Spaces

Every quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel-powered train arrives at a spray-painted stop. Nearby, a police siren cuts through the almost continuous traffic drone. Daily travelers rush by falling apart, ivy-draped fencing panels as rain clouds gather.

This is maybe the least likely spot you expect to find a well-established grape-growing plot. But James Bayliss-Smith has managed to 40 mature vines sagging with round purplish grapes on a sprawling allotment sandwiched between a line of historic homes and a commuter railway just above the city downtown.

"I've noticed people hiding heroin or other items in those bushes," says Bayliss-Smith. "Yet you just get on with it ... and keep tending to your vines."

The cameraman, 46, a filmmaker who runs a fermented beverage company, is among several local vintner. He's organized a loose collective of growers who produce vintage from several discreet city grape gardens tucked away in private yards and community plots throughout Bristol. The project is too clandestine to possess an official name yet, but the group's messaging chat is called Vineyard Dreams.

City Vineyards Around the Globe

So far, the grower's plot is the only one listed in the Urban Vineyards Association's upcoming world atlas, which includes better-known urban wineries such as the 1,800 plants on the hillsides of Paris's historic artistic district neighbourhood and over 3,000 grapevines overlooking and inside the Italian city. Based in Italy non-profit association is at the vanguard of a movement reviving city vineyards in traditional winemaking countries, but has identified them throughout the world, including cities in East Asia, Bangladesh and Central Asia.

"Vineyards help urban areas stay greener and ecologically varied. They preserve open space from construction by establishing long-term, yielding farming plots within urban environments," explains the association's president.

Like all wines, those created in urban areas are a product of the earth the vines thrive in, the vagaries of the climate and the individuals who care for the grapes. "Each vintage represents the charm, local spirit, landscape and history of a city," notes the spokesperson.

Mystery Eastern European Grapes

Returning to the city, the grower is in a race against time to harvest the grapevines he grew from a plant abandoned in his allotment by a Eastern European household. Should the rain arrives, then the birds may seize their chance to feast again. "This is the mystery Polish variety," he comments, as he removes damaged and mouldy berries from the glistering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain what variety they are, but they're definitely hardy. In contrast to premium grapes – Pinot Noir, white wine grapes and other famous French grapes – you don't have to treat them with pesticides ... this is possibly a unique cultivar that was developed by the Soviets."

Group Activities Throughout Bristol

Additional participants of the collective are additionally taking advantage of bright periods between bursts of fall precipitation. On the terrace with views of the city's shimmering harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once floated with barrels of vintage from Europe and Spain, Katy Grant is harvesting her dark berries from about 50 vines. "I love the smell of the grapevines. The scent is so evocative," she remarks, stopping with a container of fruit slung over her shoulder. "It's the scent of southern France when you roll down the car windows on vacation."

Grant, 52, who has devoted more than 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, unexpectedly took over the vineyard when she moved back to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her household in recent years. She experienced an overwhelming duty to maintain the grapevines in the garden of their new home. "This plot has previously survived multiple proprietors," she says. "I really like the idea of environmental care – of handing this down to someone else so they continue producing from the soil."

Sloping Gardens and Traditional Production

A short walk away, the remaining cultivators of the group are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. One filmmaker has cultivated more than one hundred fifty plants situated on ledges in her expansive property, which descends towards the silty River Avon. "People are always surprised," she notes, gesturing towards the interwoven vineyard. "They can't believe they can see rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."

Currently, Scofield, 60, is harvesting bunches of dusty purple Rondo grapes from rows of plants slung across the cliff-side with the assistance of her daughter, her family member. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to streaming service's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's gardening shows, was motivated to plant grapes after seeing her neighbor's grapevines. She's discovered that amateurs can make interesting, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can command prices of upwards of £7 a serving in the increasing quantity of wine bars specialising in minimal-intervention vintages. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can truly create good, traditional vintage," she states. "It's very on trend, but in reality it's reviving an old way of producing wine."

"When I tread the fruit, all the wild yeasts come off the skins and enter the liquid," says the winemaker, ankle deep in a bucket of tiny stems, seeds and crimson juice. "This represents how vintages were historically produced, but commercial producers add preservatives to eliminate the wild yeast and then incorporate a commercially produced culture."

Challenging Conditions and Creative Solutions

In the immediate vicinity active senior Bob Reeve, who inspired Scofield to establish her grapevines, has gathered his friends to pick white wine varieties from one hundred plants he has laid out neatly across two terraces. The former teacher, a northern English PE teacher who taught at Bristol University cultivated an interest in wine on regular visits to France. But it is a difficult task to cultivate this particular variety in the dampness of the gorge, with cooling tides moving through from the Bristol Channel. "I wanted to make French-style vintages here, which is somewhat ambitious," admits the retiree with amusement. "Chardonnay is slow-maturing and very sensitive to mildew."

"My goal was creating European-style vintages in this environment, which is a bit bonkers"

The unpredictable local weather is not the only problem faced by grape cultivators. The gardener has had to erect a barrier on

Tina Ponce
Tina Ponce

Elara is a wellness coach and writer passionate about helping others achieve balance and personal transformation through mindful living.